Scottish anchorages

Gigha

Most people who have heard of Gigha know about the gardens of Achamore House, rebuilt in the late 19th century on the site of an older house and again in about 1900 after a fire destroyed the top storey, and nowadays offering what looks like rather superior bed and breakfast. It is about a 20 minutes walk from the anchorage in the bay - and very well worth the effort. The house is privately owned and is a side show to the beautiful gardens set amongst mature trees from all over the world providing the very necessary windbreak from the salt laden air of the Atlantic gales. In fact the trees had been planted in the early 20th century to provide not a windbreak for plants but cover for game. Only later, in 1944, did Sir James Horlick buy the island and start planting the hundreds of azaleas and rhododendrons which make the spring and early summer one of the best times to visit. Later the herbaceous borders and flowering shrubs of the delightful walled garden come into their own. And after that the glorious autumn colours. The whole place is remarkably well looked after and signposted with nice touches like the secret passage amongst the bamboos in the walled garden and notices inviting you to walk on the grass, stroke the pine needles, and touch and sniff the flowers. Perhaps these gardens cannot really compare with Inverewe but they are a delight to wander around and sit in, particularly if you are looking for some stable dry land after a rough passage.

Just up the track from the entrance to the gardens you will find the 13th century remains of Kilchattan (St Cathan’s) chapel and burial ground, well looked after and being restored in 2010. The east gable is complete and has a fine tall window, originally a pointed arch but now round-headed. There are mouldering medieval grave slabs with carvings which are mostly difficult to make out, as well as modern gravestones, including James Horlick’s who died in 1972. A hundred yards further along, and up the rise to the right, is the rather dull but famous 7th century Ogham stone, apparently with an inscription (invisible, to me and certainly incomprehensible even if I could read it as it is written in an ancient linear script avoiding the use of vowels which originated in Ireland, named after Ogma who was an Irish monk, and used for writing secret messages by monks and scholars).
 
Walking back from the gardens to the anchorage you can pause at the late 18th century with a late 20th century extension Gigha Hotel for whatever liquid or solid refreshment seems just right for the moment (ph 01583 505254). The bar seems to be open all day but the bar meals are nothing very special (I have not been in the restaurant). Maybe the bar isn't very special either being a rather cramped accessory to what seems to be more of a hotel for tourists than a cosy haunt. The Craft Workshop and Gallery is next door and needs checking out because it hosts exhibitions, and the kids can dabble in paint, or nip up to the small play park.

The ‘modern’ church opposite the shop is worth a look. It was built in the 1920s. Apparently the minister at the time had been an architect and designed it himself (but this is not what ‘Pevsner’ says). It seems very large for the population but is well kept and there is some good stained glass. The font is medieval, taken from Kilchattan chapel.

Certainly the anchorage is a very handy place to regroup and gather strength either just before or just after rounding the Mull of Kintyre. There is a 24 hour washing machine and drier with showers and toilets right by the jetty, the Boathouse café bar which has a very good reputation for snacks, lunch and dinner (ph 01583 505123), mooring buoys for visitors, and a shop just up the road (but no decent marmalade I fear).

By the landing pontoon are some tiny sandy beaches where children can be safely left to paddle, and the more adventurous can launch their windsurfers.