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Scottish anchorages

Bàgh Gleann a'Mhaoil

The bay itself does not have much to offer other than remoteness and a rather broken-down cottage. But the walk north to Kilmory Lodge is terrific, high up above the Sound of Luing (on older maps, Scarba Sound), almost as though you are in an aeroplane with views across to Mull, Easdale, Luing, Loch Melfort, Shuna, Crinan and Kintyre. A truly spectacular walk. You pick up a Land Rover track just above the cottage and head north up the hill to the right.


Everyone who has sailed through the Sound of Luing must have noticed Kilmory Lodge, so obvious up on the hill, the only inhabitable house on the island as far as I can see. Close up it is bigger than it appears from the sea with extensive steadings, and it seems very well maintained and appointed. Presumably the owner, Shane Cadzow whose family invented the Luing breed of cattle, comes here from time to time, maybe to shoot things. But I have never seen a soul moving on Scarba on the many occasions I have sailed by. It is essentially uninhabited.


There is a ruined 14th century chapel and burial ground somewhere down by the shore below Kilmory Lodge I have not visited — Cille Mhoire an Caibel. I think it is difficult to find.

Bagh Gleann a Mhaoil Kilmory Lodge, Scarba

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The anchorage

Kilmory Lodge and the Sound of Luing