Scottish anchorages

Jura

To me, and anyone else who has been in the Scottish Islands Peaks Race, this is a special place where the fleet of yachts come in for the second stop to release their runners over three of the Paps of Jura. I used to do this run myself once, so Craighouse means pain to me. Nowadays I just do the sailing bit, but even that can be a big pain if there is no wind and lots of rowing. During the race, a rush in by dinghy to set the runners off and then the agony getting back after the run doesn't allow for much looking about. But when cruising there is a lot to do as well as sit in the boat at anchor, or on one of the now 16 moorings, and admire the view of the Paps as clouds swirl about their tops or the sun sets behind them.

This would not be too bad a place to pick up and drop off crew because there is a passenger ferry from Tayvallich on the mainland in summer – indeed you can get here from Edinburgh in a total of about five hours, including a coffee stop in Tayvallich. But the ferry only survives on a wing and a prayer, plus a subsidy.

On a quiet sunny day, perch on the wall overlooking the small harbour (a Telford design built in 1812), eat an ice cream from the nearby Jura stores (early 19th Century and has a webcam), gaze at the mountains of Arran over Kintyre, and let the children play on the beach – it may be small and rather scrappy but the children love it nonetheless. The stores do good meat and locally made bread, along with a carefully chosen selection of wines. Maybe it is a touch too noisy hereabouts in the summer holidays when there seem to be an amazing number of boats coming and going, including noisy speed boats in good weather.

The distillery founded in 1810 makes a pleasant ensemble with the surrounding buildings. The tacked-on manager's house looks like a small castle. There are tours and - of course - a shop for buying you know what. Do not be misled by the 'standing stone' across the road in the small car park - it is a fake erected by the distillery in 2011.