Craighouse

To me, and anyone else who has been in the Scottish Islands Peaks Race, this is a special place where the fleet of yachts come in for the second stop to release their runners over three of the Paps of Jura. I used to do this run myself once, so Craighouse means pain to me. Nowadays I just do the sailing bit, but even that can be a big pain if there is no wind and lots of rowing. During the race, a rush in by dinghy to set the runners off off and then the agony getting back after the run doesn't allow for much looking about. But when cruising there is a lot to do as well as sit in the boat at anchor, or on one of the now 16 moorings, and admire the view of the Paps as clouds swirl about their tops or the sun sets behind them.

This would not be too bad a place to pick up and drop off crew because there is a passenger ferry from Tayvallich on the mainland in summer – indeed you can get here from Edinburgh in a total of about five hours, including a coffee stop in Tayvallich.

On a quiet sunny day, perch on the wall overlooking the small harbour (a Telford design built in 1812), eat an ice cream from the nearby Jura stores (early 19th Century and has a webcam), gaze at the mountains of Arran over Kintyre, and let the children play on the beach – it may be small and rather scrappy but the children love it nonetheless. Maybe it is a touch too noisy in the summer holidays when there seem to be an amazing number of boats coming and going, including noisy speed boats in good weather.

The distillery founded in 1810 makes a pleasant ensemble with the surrounding buildings. The tacked-on manager's house looks like a small castle. There are tours by arrangement and - of course - a shop for buying you know what.

The Jura Hotel built in 1834 has 18 rooms, a bar, showers round the back (with erratic hot water) and meals both in the bar and the restaurant - try the ultra fresh langoustines (ph 01496 820243). It is rather cosy with lovely views from the sitting and dining rooms, and the bar, and from some of the bedrooms too - with tropical trees in the foreground as well as the occasional stag at night time. It was bought by friends in May 2010 and so - by definition - it will be a success!

Recently a bring your own bottle bistro - the Antlers (ph 01496 820123) - has opened in a very nicely restored building. There have been favourable reports, and the coffee and cake are certainly good, and there are some crafty things to peruse and buy

The walk north through the village is pleasant. The church seems to have a semi-permanent collection of old photographs of Jura people. The building was started in the late 18th Century but has had several waves of alterations since then. It is plain, calm and Scottish. There is a playground just next to the church.

A bit further north, and up the hill a bit, there is an old village called Keils with remains of crofting houses, some rescued by - I guess - incomers. Further up still is an atmospheric graveyard which is tricky to find. There is a serene view across the Sound of Jura to Kintyre. The birdsong and the sound of a rushing burn must drown out the minister's words. A good last resting place if only one was around to enjoy it. There is a ghastly concrete extension with horrible railings, particularly vile juxtaposed against the beautiful old rubble walls.

You can hire bikes (ph 07092 820385), walk to or take the bus to Jura House and gardens which are said to be excellent.

There is a folk weekend at the end of September.