Craignure

I am not sure there is a lot to be said for Craignure and indeed not many boats seem to anchor here. It reminds me of many of the Irish anchorages – in season there are a lot of tourists around, camping, children in the play park (good swings), grown ups in the Craignure Inn, fishing off the pier, at least in the school holidays. But it is sheltered, easy to anchor with good views up Loch Linnhe without too much of a wash from the Oban ferry (but still watch the crockery), useful for crew changes off the ferry, and apart from Oban, Fort William and Bowmore it has the only swimming pool within reasonable reach of an anchorage (nearer if you anchor in the north part of the bay, but quite a nice walk from the old pier - take the path off the road signed to Java). The pool opened in 2008 as some kind of joint venture between the local council and the Isle of Mull Hotel (an extraordinarily ugly construction with a dull interior which seems far too big for where it is, but the scones are good). The pool is only 17 metres long and nowhere too deep to stand up in, but the views from the water are great if you have never mastered the crawl and only do the breast stroke like me – to the entrance to the Sound of Mull and the Lismore lighthouse. It is a nice facility for sure.

Back in Craignure put your head in the church by the old pier. It is a bit surrounded by modern houses but it is a charming building. The two galleries can only be reached by outside stairs, convenient for late worshippers presumably, and inside is very wooden and rather ship-like. It was built in the 18th century and repaired in the 19th century.

The 18th century Craignure Inn is a cosy place for eating and drinking, if you can find a seat in the height of the season (ph 01680 812 305). Here they chase the midges away with cooling fans - neat idea which seems to work.

The Mull Railway is a must for small boys, and bigger boys too. Opened in 1983, this miniature track meanders through woods between banks of bluebells and wild garlic in May and ends at Torosay Station. Here you can and should visit Torosay castle and gardens as described under the Torosay anchorage. The carriages are pulled by one of two steam engines or a diesel. A scenic trip indeed, not to be missed.

Interestingly Craignure is the only place on Mull where the police can test your alcohol level, so if you are going to do a bit of drunk driving make sure to do it a long way from here - by the time the police get you here your alcohol level might be more acceptable!