Crinan

Even the dire architecture and roof top excrescences of the several times rebuilt Crinan Hotel cannot detract from the charm of the canal basin, but beware midges under the trees. As ever 'Pevsner' gets it bang on: 'A unique intimate place of green grass, white walls and black lock gates'. There is always seems to be something going on at Crinan and you can join in with the main occupation which is to watch the boats making a cock up of getting in and out of the locks, or better being hurled around the sea lock as the water is allowed in. This is a great place to lounge, have an ice cream, and generally hang out. The small cafe in the early19th century old post office is nice but pricey, it was once the post office. If you really want to spend money then dine at the Crinan hotel. It's good food alright but maybe not so good to stop you feeling uncomfortable as a scruffy yachtie amongst the well heeled tourists - of course you may be a well heeled boatie I suppose (01546 830261). The lounge bar is a lounge bar and lacks character, but the public bar next door is small and cosy (and operates a strict under 18 get lost rule). The hotel is very keen on hanging and encouraging original art, not surprising as Frances MacDonald, a well known Scottish painter, is the wife of Nick Ryan who runs the place with her. I have never had to call on the services of the Crinan boatyard, or their chandlery, but they are I believe good, and they have visitor moorings if you can't be bothered to anchor (ph 01546 830232).

For the energetic, a walk along the canal towpath is a pleasure at any time of the year from primroses in the spring to the colours of autumn (the canal is of course a treat all of its own for getting between the Clyde and West Coast). If you walk along the towpath from the Crinan basin to the first bridge, cross over and turn left you soon come to a track up the hill (this is not marked on the map). It is a charming walk constructed by the Woodland Trust who own the land here and are restoring the broadleaf woods of Scotland (and the rest of the UK too). The walk takes you back to the canal basin in an hour or so, allowing for dawdling along the way, sitting on rustic benches to admire the view and all of that. Or do the walk the other way round, from the canal basin.