Scottish anchorages

Even the dire architecture and roof top excrescences of the several times rebuilt Crinan Hotel cannot detract from the charm of the canal basin, but beware midges under the trees. As ever 'Pevsner' gets it bang on: 'A unique intimate place of green grass, white walls and black lock gates'. There always seems to be something going on at Crinan and you can join in with the main occupation which is to watch the boats making a cock up of getting in and out of the locks, or better being hurled around the sea lock as the water is allowed in. This is a great place to lounge, have an ice cream, and generally hang out. The small cafe in the early 19th century old post office is nice but pricey. If you really want to spend money then dine at the Crinan Hotel. It's good food alright but maybe not so good to stop you feeling uncomfortable as a scruffy yachtie (01546 830261). In February 2011 they reopened their seafood bar but I have not yet been there. The lounge bar is just a lounge bar and lacks character, but the public bar next door is small and cosy (and operates a strict under 18 get lost rule). The hotel - and indeed the cafe - is very keen on hanging and encouraging original art, not surprising as Frances MacDonald, a well known Scottish painter, is the wife of Nick Ryan who runs the place with her.

I have never had to call on the services of the Crinan boatyard, or their chandlery, but they are I believe very good, and they have visitor moorings if you can't be bothered to anchor (ph 01546 830232).

For the modestly energetic, a walk along the canal towpath is a pleasure at any time of the year from primroses in the spring to the colours of autumn (the canal is of course a treat all of its own for getting between the Clyde and West Coast). If you walk along the towpath from the Crinan basin to the first bridge, cross over and turn left you soon come to a waymarked track up the hill (this is not marked on the OS map). It is a charming walk constructed by the Woodland Trust who own the land here. They are restoring the broadleaf woods of Scotland (and the rest of the UK too). The walk takes you back to the canal basin in an hour or so, allowing for dawdling along the way, sitting on rustic benches to admire the view and all of that. Or do the walk the other way round, from the canal basin.

Another walk is along the footpath towards Ardnoe Point where you will find the gravestone of a 19th century skipper who died of cholera.

If she is not in the basin, you may have spotted her under a smudge or clouds of smoke from her coal fired boiler - the VIC 32, the last seagoing coal fired Clyde "Puffer". She was built in November 1943 (so a couple of months younger than me!) in Yorkshire and used in the war by the navy as one of the Victualing Inshore Craft (VIC) around Scotland. In 1975 she was bought from Keith Shellenburg who had got hold of her in the 1960s (one of the former erratic owners of Eigg) and restored by Nick and Rachel Walker. They gave her to the Puffer Preservation Trust in 2002 so she could continue to take passengers on scenic cruises around this part of Scotland. Long may she steam!