Scottish anchorages

Easdale sound may be shallow and a bit tricky, but it is well worth anchoring here to look at Easdale Island. This tiny car-less island once held a community of several hundred who were involved in slate mining here, and at Ellenabeich across the short ferry ride on the mainland, until in 1881 a storm breached the rock and masonry wall between the main quarry at Ellenabeich and the sea. By the time of the Great War all slate production had ceased. Nowadays, the workers' cottages have been taken over and restored by a new local community who are clearly working hard to restore many of the island facilities, such as the drying harbour (about half the cottages are permanently lived in). Everywhere there is slate - walls, piers, jetties, roofs, and under your feet. The early 19th century quays and jetties built of vertically orientated slate each side of the sound are particularly notable - and beautiful. Not surprisingly given the whole place is made of slate, the world stone skimming championships are held here every year (not an Olympic sport - yet). 11 countries were represented in 2011, but unless the 323 competitors spoke colloquial English I doubt if they would appreciate the innuendo of being called "tossers".

The new(ish) community hall is a bit of an architectural disaster - a combination of slate, wood and lead roofing does not guarantee aesthetic success. I have not however seen the inside. Nonetheless, incorporated into this modern building, the Puffer Bar, Restaurant and Tea Room is a good combo. You can sit outside at tables admiring the view to Mull eating cream teas, while the children swing on the swings (ph 01852 300022). I am not sure when the bar is open, it wasn't on a weekday in September; and looking through the windows I could see no evidence of any draft beers, just pressurised dispensers.

The small folk museum is a treasure and a delight. It was set up in 1980, and gradually put together lovingly over many years by Jean Adams who received an MBE for her efforts. She retired in 2006 and since then the museum has been owned by Eilean Eisdeal, the island's charitable company. There are lots of original letters, objects of various sorts, and clippings from the Oban Times. Great!

And walk round the island too to see the flooded quarries which seem to be separated from the sea by just a few feet of rock. There are loads of blackberries everywhere. The old cottages seem mostly restored now, and very charming they look too, many with gardens stuffed with flowers and shrubs.