Scottish anchorages

The En Chathastail/Galmisdale Bay anchorage has always struck me as rather unsatisfactory because it is shallow north of the pier and rolly south of the pier. This is a pity because it is an extremely interesting island to visit, the walk up the Sgurr in particular.

On the old jetty there is a cafe and bar selling the usual stuff and now open in the evenings for straightforward home cooked meals as well (ph 01687 482487), a general shop, and a craft shop also selling the usual stuff, all are friendly and helpful.

Eigg was once notorious for its awful lairds, greedy or bonkers or both, and here we are talking 20th century not the old days, but there was a celebrated community buy out in 1997 and it is now a much more harmonious place, as you can see from its very good website. Indeed, the population has increased from about 60 before the buyout to about 90 in 2011. And on Eigg you will find the doctor for the Small isles, if you should need one.

Poll nam Partan is certainly sheltered but seems to me rather too shallow, certainly at springs. There is a bit of a volcanic sandy beach for the bucket and spade members of the crew, but the beach behind the new pier is better if a little overshadowed by the pier itself - an overlarge roll on roll off confection.

Up from Poll nam Partan you will find the 1790 Old Manse which I and a few families rented in 1981. Disgracefully it has been left to rot by its present owner - social vandalism of the sort not punished by those who are intent on banging up the poor and unemployed if they behave badly. A bit further on across a small valley you will find the remains of Old St Donnan's Church, 16th century.

The Singing sands in Laig Bay can be anchored off, but they didn’t sing for me when I walked on them - however the beach is great and the cliffs behind impressive with their amazing shapes best seen in a low morning or evening light, and the view of Rum is even more impressive.