Iona (Martyrs' Bay)

Where else on the West Coast do the tourists feed the sea gulls? Where else would an American tourist ask my very English friend from Dorset to pose for a photo as 'one of the locals around here'?! And where else is there a vegetarian dinner, bed and breakfast (no bacon for sure)? But despite the extreme pressures of tourism, Iona radiates a peace and charm, perhaps because of the remarkably temperate climate, the fertile land, or the centuries of Christianity (of which there is a lot around since St Columba arrived here from Ireland in the 6th century), I don't know. Certainly the wonderful quality of the light attracts artists and the views across to Mull constantly amaze.

Although the anchorage is slightly dodgy and exposed, with a tedious swell, it would be a shame for any boat not to stop, for a few hours anyway. At the very least visit the wonderful second hand Iona Bookshop - duck under the front door lintel and there is a wonderful selection of old books about Scotland, and fiction in alphabetical order by author. But wait a bit until later in the day when the tourists have departed by ferry back to Mull before taking a look at the Abbey in peace and quiet (you can always escape across Iona Sound for a more comfortable anchorage in the Bull Hole later on). The Abbey, a Benedictine monastery, was destroyed in the 16th century Reformation and laid more or less derelict until the mid 20th century when George MacLeod formed the Iona Community which remarkably brought together ministers and craftsmen to restore the Abbey to what you see now. These days it is run by Historic Scotland but the Iona Community remains very active. It is a 'dispersed Christian ecumenical community working for peace and social justice, rebuilding of community and the renewal of worship'. 'Pevsner' as ever hits the nail on the head 'This is no ruin merely arrested in its decay to charm or intrigue the tourist but a working church restored to worship and religious study, brought back to the island, however improbable it may seem, by 20th century faith'. The 12th century St Oran's chapel in the Abbey grounds is a favourite of mine - very small, very quiet, very simple.

The ruined Augustinian 12th century nunnery, again abandoned after the Reformation, is wonderful with carefully tended flowers growing on the old walls.

There is something very mystical about all this early Christianity; as a baptised and confirmed member of the Church of England, but no longer a believer if ever I was, it is impossible not to be affected by this place. Certainly years ago one of our crew was - she bunked off and took the bus home to London!

A well as the wonderful bookshop, there are a number of food and crafty shops to wander around in the only village, you can of course stock up on bread and milk if nothing else. There are a couple of Hotels which I have not explored for meals - the Argyll Hotel and the St Columba Hotel.

For young children, Martyr's beach, right by the anchorage, is a tiny paradise of fine sand and turquoise sea, and at the right time of the year there are corncrakes calling. For the energetic, bikes are for hire to explore the island.