Scottish anchorages

The pressure of international tourism is more extreme here than anywhere else on the west coast, clearly the tourist office knows its business for Iona. Where else on the West Coast do the tourists feed the sea gulls? Where else would an American tourist ask my very English friend from Dorset to pose for a photo as 'one of the locals around here'?! And where else is there a vegetarian dinner, bed and breakfast (no bacon for sure)? Mind you in winter everywhere shuts up, including both hotels, and the place is weirdly deserted.

But despite the extreme pressures of tourism, Iona radiates a peace and charm, perhaps because of the remarkably temperate climate, or the fertile land against the formidable backdrop of the cliffs of west Mull, or the centuries of Christianity (of which there is a lot around after St Columba arrived here from Ireland in the 6th century), I don't know. Certainly the wonderful quality of the light attracts artists and the views across to Mull constantly amaze.

Although the anchorage is slightly dodgy and exposed, with a tedious swell and tide, it would be a shame for any boat not to stop, for a few hours anyway. It is frustrating not to be able to spend longer here but at the very least visit the wonderful second hand Iona Bookshop - duck under the front door lintel and there is a wonderful selection of old books about Scotland, and fiction in alphabetical order by author (the opening times are a bit erratic).

But wait a bit until later in the day when the tourists have departed by ferry back to Mull before taking a look at the Abbey in peace and quiet (you can always escape across Iona Sound for a more comfortable anchorage in the Tinker's Hole later on). The Abbey, a Benedictine monastery, was destroyed in the 16th century Reformation and lay more or less derelict until the mid 20th century when George MacLeod formed the Iona Community which remarkably brought together ministers and craftsmen to restore the Abbey to what you see now. Maybe it is a bit too tidy and thus sterile, but still an astounding achievement, and it is fascinating to compare the interior stonework - some new, other bits old and weathered from being so long in the open air. Lots of work for stonemasons here! These days it is run by Historic Scotland but the Iona Community remains very active, a 'dispersed Christian ecumenical community working for peace and social justice, rebuilding of community and the renewal of worship'. 'Pevsner' as ever hits the nail on the head 'This is no ruin merely arrested in its decay to charm or intrigue the tourist but a working church restored to worship and religious study, brought back to the island, however improbable it may seem, by 20th century faith'. The 12th century St Oran's chapel in the Abbey grounds is a favourite of mine - very small, very quiet, very simple.

The ruined Augustinian 12th century nunnery, again abandoned after the Reformation, is wonderful with carefully tended flowers growing on the old walls and a wild garden.

There is something very mystical about all this early Christianity; as a baptised and confirmed member of the Church of England, but no longer a believer if ever I was, it is impossible not to be affected by this place. Certainly years ago one of our crew was - she bunked off and took the bus home to London!

The Iona Community welcome centre, gift and book shop across the road from the Abbey has the biggest collection of religious books I have ever seen.

A well as the wonderful bookshop, there are a number of food and crafty shops to wander around in the only village, you can of course stock up on bread and milk if nothing else. There are a couple of Hotels which I have not properly explored. The Argyll Hotel was remarkably quiet when I had a simple and OK lunch (organic and local stuff mostly) in 2011, maybe because it was probably up for sale - in 2012 new owners have taken over. The other is the St Columba Hotel. The road in front of the Argyll Hotel is particularly charming, and note the Post Office.

For young children, Martyrs' beach, right by the anchorage, is a tiny paradise of fine sand and turquoise sea, and at the right time of the year there are corncrakes calling. For the energetic, bikes are for hire to explore the island.