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Scottish anchorages

Loch Cuan (Croig)

After a slightly tense entrance (at least without a chart plotter), this is a delightful spot, at least in quiet weather from the south, and when there is not too much swell. The small harbour at Croig (of crab and lobster fame) with an old jetty has less space than outside Goat Island (with the obelisk), but also less swell and it is a shorter row to the shore. There are a lot of seals on the skerries, and there is a small beach facing northwest where there is excellent snorkelling for crabs and other assorted sealife. There is also a larger beach just round the corner, facing southeast, but it is not so charming. In both cases there is not much sand left at high water springs.


It is a bit of a row, but the Quinish Estate over on the east shore has some splendid walks and views — and a standing stone (from the anchorage, you can see the big house, circa 1810, peeping through the trees).


It is a bit of a walk, maybe a mile from Croig to Am Birlinn at Penmore Mill, a highly regarded — and ecologically respectable — fish restaurant even though it only opened in 2009 (ph 01688 400 619). They might give you a lift if you call them. I have not been there but they win prizes.


You can also take the tender up to the village of Dervaig but I am not sure it is really worth the effort — you certainly need an outboard rather than oars. It is quite a pretty place, being a 'planned' village the old part of which was built as a oner in the early 1800s. The Bellachroy Hotel is apparently the oldest inn on the island, dating from 1608 it is said. It has a bar with food, a gastropub indeed. There is quite a nice church with a conically-capped round tower just like the church on Canna (no surprise once you are told the same architect was responsible for both — Peter MacGregor Chalmers). It was built in 1904 and after a fairly recent restoration is looking very good, inside and out, and the stained glass is notable. But I am not sure about the colour of the tower which is too white for my taste. Of course it brings to mind the Irish Romanesque towers, as it is meant to, but it seems a bit out of place in Scotland.




Loch cuan 1 Cuan beach

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Loch Cuan with Ardnamurchan beyond

The beach facing northwest at the anchorage