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Pretty, like Tobermory, this is not. Mallaig was founded by Lord Lovat, the local landowner, as a fishing community in the mid-19th century. It is a much rougher and tougher sort of a place than Tobermory, a working place, literally at the end of the line which arrived in 1901, a once thriving fishing port as recently as the 1960s but then sadly in decline, unfriendly to yachts. But from 2012 with pontoons things definitely looked up for boaties. There is even a harbour seal to amuse. And from 2016 a spanking new shower and toilet block, all pretty good news as long as there is not a good going gale from the north.
This is now a good place to change crew who can arrive off the train (sleeper from London to Fort William, change for the lovely Mallaig line opened in 1901 and thankfully still open). And it is good for restocking with a large Co-op, fresh fish at Andy Race fish merchants by the garage, a brilliant bakery on the harbour, an outdoor sort of a shop, and chandlery at Johnston Brothers. But sadly no butcher, and the bookshop has gone. However, I am told there is a community run second hand book shop with an excellent selection in the Fishermen's Mission, and café. Check it out. And of course there are several places to eat and drink, which I have not properly explored. And there is the community-run swimming pool.
The harbour scenes in Breaking the Waves were filmed here.
The new in 2012 pontoons
Al fresco at the Tea Gardens above the harbour
The new in 2016 harbour facilities
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