Muck

The south anchorage on Muck is the easy one, even easier now it is buoyed making the old leading line involving the plantation on the skyline redundant, and so it is even more crowded. The roll on roll off ferry pier is rather large and lumpish, so the anchorage is not as pretty as it once was – and there can be swell. Nonetheless, it still retains its charm, as does the whole island. Just up from the pier is a delightful small craft shop crammed with interesting bits and pieces, and in the same building an excellent café serving home made scones, buns and so on – come to think of it, these things could hardly not be home made here. And they do evening meals, I think probably by arrangement (ph 01687 462 990). Just up the hill you can buy eggs, crab and lobster when available. Do walk across the island, the views of Rum and Eigg are excellent.

The Port Mor House Hotel next to the south anchorage looks rather nice. I have not been there but they do dinner for non residents by arrangement (ph 01687 462 365).

The whole place is pleasant and well organised - and farmed, probably because it has been in the hands of the MacEwan family for a century or so and has been spared the chaos of the fast changing ownership of Eigg at the end of the last century, and the degradation of Rum by the Edwardian nouveau riche from Northern England and various subsequent eccentrics. Nowadays it has a population of about 40.

The north anchorage is altogether much more sporting with a leading line involving the correct barn of two, a wall which looks more like a cliff, and little room to spare between two reefs. But, as ever, it is not as bad as it looks in the sailing directions and the views of Eigg and Rum, and the wildlife are terrific. There are always seals around, and the usual selection of sea birds are very much in evidence, with the terns and oyster catchers making the most noise. Ashore, just to the east of the lovely beach (ideal for small children who are prepared to share with the cows and horses) is a narrow gut between two reefs with an old jetty and some rail tracks (what were these for one wonders?). Along the reef is a good spot for seals. And of course one can always walk to the tea room - maybe half an hour.