Oban

Oban  is something of a disappointment for boaties but I personally rather like the slightly brassy breeziness. It is very much a ferry terminal and so has the feel of people going backwards and forwards to both the Innner and Outer Hebrides. It ought to be good for restocking, meeting crew off the train or bus or even the seaplane from Glasgow, getting bits and pieces, and catching up on civilisation. After all it is the biggest town on the west coast. Indeed it is good for all of these things but the trouble is that it is not all that yacht friendly. Quite the reverse. There are no pontoons in the bay for an overnight stay although that may change. Tying up to the Railway or North Piers exposes one to damage while the visitor moorings and loading pontoon with water near Oban Sailing Club seem too far from the shops - 15 minutes walk to Tesco for all your food if you can bear the visual confusion, narrow aisles and overheating (horrible really). The moorings are not all that sheltered in a blow, and there were no mooring strops with pick-up buoys when I arrived all alone one evening in 2009 in a force 6! There are still none in 2010. There is nothing to stop you anchoring off the Corran Esplanade, but the problem there is wash from the frequent Caledonian MacBrayn ferries which dominate the bay - and it is not easy finding a good spot. But the walk into town is quicker and more interesting. No, although maybe it's alright to pick up or drop off crew, provision the boat, or briefly visit the place it is better to base oneself in Dunstaffnage or Oban Marina (ph 01631 565 333) on Kerrera across Oban bay (but that requires a water taxi across to the town). For anything else one is better off in Tobermory which is likely to be on your way to or from Oban. Of course Oban has form in self destruction; those of us old enough to remember the airy 19th century railway station will not forgive its replacement with such boring modern buildings.

There are some excellent restaurants. The Waterfront Seafood Restaurant (ph 01631 563110) on the Railway pier is really good for robustly cooked fish. It is in a very unpromising looking building, originally the seaman's mission, up some stairs above a pub with flashing lights, uncomfortable music, vast numbers of taps dispensing various lagers and insipid beers. "From the pier to the pan as fast as we can" was once their slogan. There are great views, one way to the north entrance to Oban Bay and the other direct into the kitchen. The menu is simple and fairly brief, and the food is absolutely excellent! Book a table by the window overlooking the pier and watch the Isle of Mull Ferry come and go while you eat. Ee-Usk on the North Pier (ph 01631 565666) is a more upmarket fish restaurant (no children under 12 in the evening sort of thing) and next door is the more downmarket Piazza (ph 01631 563628) but the views over the bay and of the ferries are great for interest (mind you the architecture on the North Pier is legolandish, best seen from the inside out). Coast is another pretty good restaurant, not mostly seafood, but it suffers by not having a view of the sea and rather dull decor (ph 01631 569 900). I have never been able to get into the Temple Seafood Restaurant next to Oban sailing club, conveniently by the visitor moorings, probably because it is very small, but it is said to be very good (ph 01631 566 000). For a seafood sandwich you can do no better than the hut on the pier - known as the shack - where the ferries berth. And for a latte, bacon roll or a bun there is the Kitchen Garden, which is my favourite above the very good Deli in George Street. Other cafes include Julie's opposite the entrance to the distillery, and Bossards just near the Tesco carpark. Pubs? There are no decent pubs, at least where you can get a good draft beer in comfortable and quiet surroundings without feeling threatened - Oban really does need to do something about this