Scottish anchorages

These two anchorages are on opposite sides of the same small headland, within easy walking distance of each other. Both are exposed to the south. If you can stand the rolling about, at Port Appin there are mooring buoys supplied by the Pierhouse, a pretty good place for a meal as it happens with an excellent seafood restaurant (ph 01631 730302). It also has a sauna and washing facilities for yachties. Originally this was a 19th century cottage for the pier master when steam ships used to call here. It was considerably and extended in the 1990s.

For the very serious foodie the Airds Hotel beckons, just a few minutes up the road (ph 01631 730535). Here you can get one of the best meals in Scotland, and they don't mind too much if you are a wee bit scruffy off a boat (no ties are needed thankfully). But maybe the food is a better experience if you stay at the hotel, the effect is rather spoiled by a wet row back to the boat in a strong south westerly wind.

Just across the road from Airds you will find the very pretty top section of the old Sgeir Bhuidhe lighthouse (yes, another Stevenson). In 2002 this was replaced by one of those ugly modern low-maintenance eco-friendly solar-powered boxes designed by someone with no aesthetic sense whatsoever, Indeed, the proposed change was so resented by the local community that one day they woke up to find their dear old lighthouse had been repainted to look like Mr Blobby, a well known TV cartoon character of the time. Needless to say the Northern Lighthouse Board was not amused.

If you want to nip across to Lismore there is a passenger ferry operating from the pier.

Airds bay is a bit more sheltered, at least from the north and west. The fine big house overlooking the bay is 18th Century Airds House, privately owned so you can't really get near it. However, the round walk is good via Port Appin. It takes about 40 minutes if you are not tempted by the two excellent eating establishments above. Go ashore on the west side of the bay, pick up the track and turn left or right. To the left, near the headland is an impressive natural arch in the quartzite, the deciduous trees are lovely. In a short while you get to the Pierhouse. Further on, just before taking the path back off the road to Airds bay, is the Airds Hotel. Also the village hall is near here where you can get local information, and there is a general store too.