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Well, it is almost totally enclosed and modestly remote but hardly enough to justify the hyperbole of the Sailing Directions which has had the inevitable result — too many other boats, always too many other boats except perhaps in the dead of winter. And it will get worse after being voted the most popular west coast anchorage in 2011. Actually you can strike lucky in the early spring when the banks around the anchorage are awash with primroses and bluebells, and herons stalk whatever herons stalk (we were the only boat on March 30th 2016 — sunny, a bit chilly, but a first for me). It is certainly a pretty place and you can wander around on the small islands while the children row around safely in the inflatable.
In fact it is not as remote as it looks and feels because it is only a ten-minutes walk along a track to Clachan Seil, a small community with two things to do: gawp with the trippers at the so-called Bridge over the Atlantic (in truth over Clachan Sound) and then repair to the 18th century Tigh an Truish pub (ph 01852 300 242). It is cosy, but I'm a bit uncertain about the food these days, at least out of season when I was last there. And food is not available every night of the week even in season. There is a wonderful old wooden bench around the bar, perfect for sitting and leaning on the bar and drinking their real ales.
Tigh an Truish is Gaelic for 'house of the trousers'. After the disastrous 1745 Jacobite rebellion kilts were banned, so the islanders heading for the mainland are supposed to have stopped off here to change from their kilts into trousers — sounds plausible to me. After being in the same family for 35 years the pub was sold in 2014, so let's very much hope the new owners will really care for it, and develop it sympathetically. To a newcomer this pub explains the steady stream of boaties leaving their inflatables on the shore and then disappearing over the hill (follow the signs).
Outside the pub, and seemingly part of the pub operation, are a couple of small outlets for postcards and some local photographs. Self-service with an honesty box.
The bridge, built in 1792-3 with uncertain influences from Thomas Telford, is a very beautiful hump-backed stone structure which is well worth a look, and a photograph.
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The 'Bridge over the Atlantic'
Tigh an Truish — the house of the trousers