Tobermory

The fleshpots of Tobermory! Undoubtedly the prettiest village - or town - on the West Coast. Not to be missed. This anchorage has almost everything, particularly after a stormy day off Ardnamurchan; pubs, hotels, restaurants, showers, launderette, distillery, shops, walks, water, diesel, just hanging around at anchor or on the front. Once upon a time not so long ago it was only an anchorage, but then came the moorings and now the pontoons (at a price) complete with a parading otter in 2008 - but sadly now dead. OK I suppose and certainly it has made it much easier to find a good anchoring spot under the trees in the old anchoring area, provided private moorings don't go on encroaching (Tobermory harbour master please note). Right above the pontoons you will find a laundry (rather slow, so expect to wait a long time), along with toilets and showers which are fine (but why does one have to pay 20p I wonder, does that not encourage boaties to pollute the bay from their boats?). Of course if you want peace and quiet in Tobermory Bay then do your shopping and push off to Aros Bay or the Doirlinn.

Tobermory was toiling with Balamory fever in the early 2000s, inundated during the summer school holidays with families whose young children wanted to see all the sites from the popular TV programme. That is fine up to a point, but it was not the real Tobermory until they all went back to Oban on the ferry (apparently they didn't bring much to the economy because they just looked at the sights, ate their picnic lunch, and went away).

MacGochan's pub right next to the pontoons and right in the path of the visiting yachtsman can be given a miss - slow service, rather surly, bus exhaust fumes, all three Mull draft ales had run out on both occasions I went there (a supply problem they said). Maybe I was just unlucky. Above it is a restaurant I have not been to in its current pizza incarnation – get a table with a view over the bay if you can.

The Tobermory chip van on the old (fishermans') pier (completed in 1814 by Telford) by the 1905 town clock is well renowned with its Les Routiers designation. It is run by Jeanette Gallagher and Jane MacLean, both fishermen's wives.

For a decent pub, best to head direct for the Mishnish. The action seems to be in the public bar where the best music is to be found, provided you don't mind playing at being a sardine with yachties (in yellow wellies, no in Dubarries these days), scuba divers (small and round with their origin blazoned onto their bulging T-shirts) and the local youth. This place has real atmosphere with the walls adorned with flags and photographs, a pool table and cosy cubicles (for kissing it seems) if you can get a seat in one (01688 302009). Amazingly there may also be live music in the lounge bar as well where you are more likely to get a seat. Mind you, the toilets in the public bar are pretty vile and there only seems to be one draft beer, the local Mishnish Ale (which is good). And the pub grub is good too. I have not tried the new in 2010 restaurant on the first floor.

The arts centre and nice café up the hill - An Tobar - is really worth a visit. It is in a converted school above the main street on Argyll Terrace with great views and outside tables - one of which is created from one half of a small wooden boat (ph 01688 302211). There are all sorts of activities there - music, art classes, gallery and so on. I am not myself all that keen on Mull Pottery but you will find the studio, shop and cafe on the road to Salen, a bit out of town though.

The Mull museum on the main drag is small, charming and interesting - show your children the tawse to remind them what it was like in the good old days (the tawse is a strip of leather used to beat naughty children over the palm of the hand, in front of the class!).

And the Mull Theatre is an absolute must - it is described on the Aros Bay anchorage page.