Scottish anchorages

Sound of Mull

The fleshpots of Tobermory! Undoubtedly the prettiest village - or town - on the West Coast. Not to be missed. This anchorage has almost everything, particularly after a stormy day off Ardnamurchan; pubs, hotels, restaurants, showers, launderette, distillery, shops, walks, water, diesel, just hanging around at anchor or on the front. Once upon a time not so long ago it was only an anchorage, but then came the Tobermory Harbour Association (a community enterprise company), moorings, and now the pontoons (at a very reasonable price) complete with a parading otter in 2008 - sadly now dead. OK I suppose, good for the local community, and certainly it has made it much easier to find a good anchoring spot under the trees in the old anchoring area which used to be hellish crowded, provided private moorings don't go on encroaching (Tobermory harbour master please note).

Right above the pontoons you will find a laundry (rather slow, so expect to wait a long time) in a less than attractive modern building masquerading as something between a lighthouse and a church, along with toilets and showers which are fine (you have to pay 20p unless you get the code from the harbour master or a passing boatie). A convenient landslip would do for the whole lot. Of course if you want peace and quiet in Tobermory Bay then do your shopping and push off to Aros Bay or the Doirlinn.

Tobermory was toiling with Balamory fever in the early 2000s, inundated during the summer school holidays with families whose young children wanted to see all the sites from the popular BBC Scotland TV programme. That was fine up to a point, but it was not the real Tobermory until they all went back to Oban on the ferry (apparently they didn't bring much to the economy because they just came for the day, looked at the sights, ate their picnic lunch, and went away). Even in 2011 there are still the remains of Balamory fever to be seen in the shops selling colouring-in books and such like - PC Plum still lives!

MacGochan's pub right next to the pontoons and right in the path of visiting yachtsman can I reckon be given a miss - slow service, rather surly, bus exhaust fumes, Mull draft ales had run out on both occasions I went there (a supply problem they said). Maybe I was just unlucky, so correct me if I am wrong. Above it is a restaurant which has gone through several quick iterations; it is now a branch of the Waterfront in Oban so it should be good. Sadly at dinner in July 2011 there was almost no one there, in high summer too. Get a table with a view over the bay if you can (ph 01688 302365).

For a decent pub, best to head direct for the Mishnish. The action is in the public bar (where music can be found some nights) provided you don't mind playing at being a sardine with yachties (in yellow wellies, no in Dubarries these days), scuba divers (small and round with their origin blazoned onto their bulging T-shirts) and the local youth. This place has real atmosphere with the walls adorned with flags and photographs, a pool table and cosy cubicles (for kissing it seems) if you can get a seat in one. Mind you, the toilets in the public bar are pretty vile and there only seems to be one draft beer, the local Mishnish Ale (which is good). And the pub grub is good too. The new in 2010 restaurant is a bit too metropolitan in its decor for my taste, the musac too loud too, and the one time I went the food was disappointing for the price (ph 01688 302009).