Ulva ferry

Ulva is a pretty island but also in some ways depressing, certainly sad, because the remains of the past community of about 600 people are still so very obvious - the decaying church, the overgrown fields and the ruined cottages buried in the bracken. But then it is a quiet haven and the coastal scenery is fascinating with the mixture of basalt columns and limestone outcrops. It is privately owned and now has a population of only about 16. There is, not surprisingly, a ferry, across to Mull.

The anchorage at Ulva Ferry is delightful with a great view of Ben More, so spiky from this aspect and not the lumpen shape it is from elsewhere. The Boathouse cafe does great seafood. When I was first there in 2007 it seemed to be in a state of glum sullenness. No one bothered to serve us either at the counter or the tables, there was no eye contact, and after 15 minutes or more looking expectant we left. The dog was more friendly. But things are a whole lot better these days, spectacular even now that it is in the hands of Emma Mckie and Rebecca Munro (ph 01688 500421). You can anchor briefly right outside but watch out for passing fishing boats and the underwater cables. And then have a go at Ulva Sound, but not after too much alcohol. It is not I think open on a Saturday, presumably because the ferry doesn't run on Saturdays. The adjacent restored cottage - Sheila's cottage - is rather good because it shows the not so distant past as it was - uncomfortable and probably very cold and damp in winter. The walk around the edge of Ulva House (1950s rather dull looking from the outside) and the farm is really nice, and the 1828 church is worth a look - particularly the spectacular double tired wooden pulpit.