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Scottish anchorages

Useful books

There are many very useful and even wonderful books out there, worth having on the boat if you have the room; they have certainly been a great resource for writing this website (click here for Sailing Directions).

 

Logs and cruises:

 

'The Land of Lorne including the cruise of the Tern to the Outer Hebrides' Robert Buchanan, Chapman and Hall, London 1879. Perhaps the first account of west coast sailing, surprisingly by a quite well known Scottish poet, novelist and dramatist. This was his only book about sailing, and in large part a panegyric for the area.

 

A Yachtsman's Holidays or Cruising in the Hebrides John Inglis, Pickering and Co, London 1879. Another early account of cruises in the Hebrides, fairly posh chaps with a skipper and paid hands. Much drinking and eating, but also interesting verbatim conversations and good accounts of the sailing.

 

Down Channel R T McMullen, Grafton Books, London 1986 (a reproduction of the original 1893 edition). Logs of his many cruises between 1850 and 1891, including to the east and west coasts of Scotland, Ireland and round the British Isles including Orkney. Very little description of the places he landed, or who he spoke to, but excellent accounts of the sea and of sailing - with a hired crew - before anyone much else was attempting to go cruising, at least for pleasure.

 

The Log of the Blue Dragon 1892-1904 C C Lynam, AH Bullen, London, 1907. Amazing and amusing account of cruises in the Hebrides, often in winter and sometimes single handed, with many groundings, cock ups and near misses. The 25ft centre plate engineless yawl was built in land-locked Oxford, sailed down the Thames, round Lands End and up to Scotland, and the author "never had a paid hand on board, and never but once signalled for a pilot"! He was an unconventional and no doubt inspirational headmaster of the Dragon School in Oxford, which is why his cruises were all in the school holidays (these days I like to think he would have taught in a comprehensive school). He didn't like Cowper's Sailing Tours (see below) at all "His knowledge of the west coast and its people is gathered from two hurried cruises and merits rather the name of ignorance....contains nothing useful that is not taken from the official Sailing Directions."! He was also much troubled by migraine.

 

Coastwise Cross-seas, the tribulations and triumphs of a casual cruiser Henry Reynolds, J D Potter, London, 1921. Although based in the Deben in Suffolk, the schoolmaster author spent his summer holidays cruising - with no engine - all round the UK, including up to Orkney and Shetland, and round the west coast, taking in Ireland too. Not much description of the few places he had time to call in on, but excellent feeling of what sailing was like 100 years ago.

 

Isle, Ben and Loch, from the Clyde to Skye S Heckstall Smith, Edward Arnold, London, 1932. An account of gentlemen's yachting where the skipper and pilot were hired, and the Owner ruled the roost. It is very much about our patch of sea, albeit with little information of what there is to do ashore, and in purple prose too often along with much romantic twaddle about Skye. But I approve of "Exercise when living on a yacht is not to be neglected. That is one of the charms of all these Highland waters, and the way to enjoy them most is to make short cruises with an early start, and bring up about five o'clock. After dinner is a grand time for a walk, it is never really dark in June and July".

 

Sailing Orders. Practical instruction to yachtsman, illustrated by the author's cruises on the West Coast of Scotland Capt J R Harvey, Alexander Maclehose, London 1935. What it says on the cover, well written descriptions of summer holidays on not much money, and even without a 'paid hand' "my young family and I have always managed somehow". There is also a lot of technical stuff on charts and how to make them, navigation, compass deviation, how to organise a boat most of which is not that interesting. But information about many of the anchorages is still relevant. As was so common in those days the engine was unreliable and a lot of time was spent towing the boat with the dinghy, and by horse or even manpower along the Crinan canal.

 

West Coast Cruising John McLintock, Blackie and Son, Glasgow, 1938 is another between the wars account of not so much cruises in chronological order, but of the author's experiences on the west coast. However, there is too much history, fairy tales and misty Celtic legends for my taste, all dressed up in purple prose. Nonetheless, it gives a good idea of what the anchorages were like, along with some pilotage information. Curiously we are told nothing of what sort of boat he sailed, or with whom, and nor did he tell us anything about the people he met along the way. Or himself.

 

Leaves from Rowan's logs; cruises on the west coast of Scotland R.B.Carslaw, Robert Ross and Co Ltd, London, 1944 is the account by a Glasgow surgeon of how in the 1930s he introduced his wife and five children to sailing on the Clyde and up sometimes to as far as Torridon. He also had a dog aboard. While he doesn't tell us all that much about the places he visited or the family dynamics it is certainly interesting to read about cruising in what were then empty seas; he anchored in Ardfern, Craobh Haven and Dunstaffnage long before there were any marinas. Puilladobhrain was clearly a great favourite but he didn't seem to walk over the hill to the pub. And so was the Brandy Stone, a large lump of rock on the shore just south of Oban Sailing Club, an area now occupied by moorings. He seems to have had far worse weather than we have today, or maybe he was just exaggerating as the book was written from his logs 10 or more years after the cruises.

 

We who adventure; cruises in British Waters L B Winter, Oxford University Press, 1956. Another doctor author, this time sailing from Essex who in the 1930s cruised off the west and north coasts of Scotland.

 

Halcyon in the Hebrides Bob Orrell, Birlinn, 2012 will probably become a classic of how sailing was in the early 2000s. He rather lovingly describes a solo voyage from the Clyde up to Stornoway and back, possibly his last cruise as he was over 70 at the  time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Book shelf

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General guide books:

 

Cruising Scotland, the Clyde to Cape Wrath: a companion to the Clyde Cruising Club Sailing Directions Mike Balmforth and Edward Mason, Clyde Cruising Club Publications, 2010. This lavishly illustrated book celebrates the centenary of the Clyde Cruising Club with a description of many of the places on this website, and more - the whole of the west coast in fact. For the coffee table as well as the boat library.

 

'Pevsner' is my generic term for all those wonderfully detailed books about the buildings of England, Scotland, Ireland and Wales which were started by Nikolaus Pevsner, the architectural historian, between 1951 and 1974. The two volumes you need for these anchorages are Argyll and Bute by Frank Arneil Walker, 1992, Penguin Books and Highlands and Islands by John Gifford, Yale University press, 2003.

 

The Scottish Islands Hamish Haswell-Smith, Canongate, revised and updated 2015 is the bible, albeit not by definition of the mainland of Scotland. The drawings, by the architect author, are charming and the information encyclopaedic. It is has to be on the boat really.

 

Scotland the Best Peter Irvine, Collins, London, 2016, now in its 12th edition, is quite simply the best guide to Scotland - beaches, walks, pubs, hotels, everything. It is specific rather than sensitive as we say in the medical trade, in other words there are some good places missing but those that are mentioned are almost invariably excellent. I have mentioned nearly everywhere listed in the guide if it is within reach of an anchorage.

 

 

"For my part, I buy and read every record of actual cruising that I hear of or see advertised. The interest of such publications (which are astonishingly few in number) very largely depends on their simplicity and good temper.....constant grumbling, generally at the weather or the natives is another characteristic that spoils them". The Log of the Blue Dragon, CC Lynam. 1907.

Some quirky and other books about the area:

 

Tea with Chrissie, the story of Burg and Ardmeanach on the Isle of Mull Rosalind Jones, Craigmore Publications, Isle of Mull, 2007. A wonderful account of the old lady who outlived all her siblings and hung on in her cottage in a remote part of Mull until she died. In her later years she became well known to the hundreds of people who visited the fossil tree because it was de rigueur on the way to call in to see her and have a cup of tea and a scone. This book gives a very good idea of what Mull was like through the 20th century.

 

The Green Ray, Jules Verne, Luath Press 2009. A 19th century romantic novel based on the author's journeys in Scotland, culminating in deering do on Staffa. Also reads like a travel book, and as such is extremely accurate.

 

When the years were young, Mary Sandeman, Natural History and Antiquarian Society of Mid-Argyll.  A charming account of her early childhood by the daughter of the local doctor on Jura in the 1920s.

 

Around the west coast of Scotland books

 

There are a number of useful and informative books about this area, ranging from the antiquarian to the present day. They all have their qualities.

 

A Description of the Western Isles of Scotland called Hybrides Sir Donald Monro High Dean of the Isles. Birlinn, Edinburgh, 1994. The first description, albeit brief and in places difficult to follow, of 209 islands in the 16th century. The first Haswell-Smith perhaps.

 

A Description of the Western Isles of Scotland circa 1695 Martin Martin, Birlinn, Edinburgh, 1994 is really the first good account of the Hebrides, and other islands. Written by a local (a gentleman of Skye) in his 30s, who clearly travelled round all the places he wrote about, describing everything from the people, their religion, what they ate, farming, anchorages and lots more.

 

Thomas Pennant's A Tour in Scotland and Voyage to the Hebrides 1772 Birlinn, Edinburgh 1998, is a surprisingly easy read, far from pompous, and less dated than one might have imagined. He had a real interest in everything he saw from what people farmed and ate, to a bit of history, to the flora and fauna, and more.

 

A Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland Samuel Johnson, 1775, Ed RW Chapman, Oxford University Press, 1970 is another easy read, a real classic, and like Tennant full of interest about the people, posh and not so posh, and on the nature of the Scottish as seen from the view of a Londoner in his 60s.

 

The Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides with Samuel Johnson, LL.D James Boswell, 1785, Ed RW Chapman, Oxford University Press, 1970. This is just what it says. Longer than Johnson’s account, it focuses much more on Johnson than on Scotland, but nonetheless is a fairly easy read. It adds to Johnson’s description of Scotland and the Scots, and has the advantage of being written by a Scotsman rather than a literary intellectual from London.

 

A Tour through the Highlands of Scotland and the Hebride Isles in 1786 John Knox, James Thin, Edinburgh 1975 is what it says on the tin. This was not the John Knox, but a Scottish philanthropist eager to set up fishing stations to exploit the untapped – at the time – potential for fishing. He clearly had huge sympathies with the impoverished natives, constantly thinking of ways to improve their lives.

 

Rather harder work because it is very long and somewhat portentous is: The Highlands and Islands of Scotland, containing descriptions of their scenery and antiquities Longman 1824 by the doctor and chemist, but mostly geologist, Dr John MacCulloch. It comes in four volumes that can be downloaded free from http://www.electricscotland.com/travel/highlands.htm. He himself was not a sailor but he certainly got around in OPBs (other people's boats).

 

 

 

My favourite sailing round Britain book has to be One Summer's Grace, a family voyage round Britain Hodder and Stoughton 1990, by Libby Purves, particularly for her observations about small children on boats.

 

A recent and very witty addition is 'Phoenix from the ashes, the boat that rebuilt our lives' Adlard Coles 2012, by Justin Ruthven-Tyers who forsook the West Country to come to rest on Islay.

 

 

And don't forget to have on board books about the birds, flowers, whales and dolphins, trees, and the seashore.

 

Book cover