Anyone who knows anything about whisky must have heard of Islay, even if the only bottle of the island's whisky they have ever seen was in an airport shop. There are nine active single malts, all but two distilled on the coast, so going anticlockwise: Bruichladdich, Bowmore, Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Ardbeg, Caol Ila and Bunnahabhainn. An inland operation started distilling at Kilchoman in 2005, the first Islay distillery to be built for 125 years, and then Ardnahoe in 2018. And in 2024 the old Port Ellen distillery was brought back to life. For myself I don't like the peaty taste of most Islay malts, but luckily for Islay there are a lot of people who completely disagree with my taste in whisky.
Far fewer people know exactly where Islay is, and even fewer have actually been there. It is quite different from the other Hebridean islands, and not at all like the Highlands except in a few easterly corners, having a character of its own — more rural, farmland, more whitewashed houses, more money around judging by the size of some of the houses, more birds although they are mostly on the land and not so much at sea, and few castles. And at a bit over 3000 or so, the largest island population. The rich farming land on Islay is not a new observation. In the late 18th century Pennant wrote: "Perhaps it may seem trifling to mention, that some excellent new potatoes were served up at dinner; but this circumstance, with the forwardness of the hay harvest, shows what can be effected by culture in this island ... " (A Tour in Scotland and Voyage to the Hebrides 1772. Thomas Pennant, Birlinn, Edinburgh, 1998). Even earlier, in the 16th century, Dean Monro had described Islay as "fertil, fruitful, and full of natural grassing, with maney grate diere, maney woods, faire games of hunting beside everey toune ..." (A Description of the Western Isles of Scotland called Hybrides. Sir Donald Monro who travelled through many of them in 1549, first published 1774, Birlinn, Edinburgh, 1994).
Islay has its own brewery too — Islay Ales. This is particularly good news for Englishmen like myself brought up on proper beer, not caring at all for the sometimes mass-produced Scottish version (there are exceptions like Caledonian IPA, Stewart Ales, and an increasing number of craft beers). Indeed, after nearly 40 years living in Scotland the only things I really miss about England are the pubs with their real ales. Islay has an annual festival in late May, a book festival in August, and a jazz festival in September which should be worth checking out if you happen to be passing.
