Why would anyone want to sail all the way up to the head of this loch, just to tack (probably) back down it again? Well, it is very pretty to start off with. There are lots of deciduous woods hiding well-planted conifer plantations, and neat fields stretching down to the water's edge. At the head of the loch, right up at the end, there is a rather charming if somewhat beaten-up pier with some rusting hulks (four in a watery graveyard at my last count), lots of wild flowers, and usually no other visiting yacht to disturb the peace.
This is the tradesman's entrance to the village of Tarbert, half-an-hour walk along quite a busy road. In the early 18th century there was a plan to dig a canal here across the narrow isthmus to connect the west coast with the Clyde, so avoiding the perils of the Mull of Cantyre as it was then called. But there was never enough money, and eventually the connection was made a few miles further north at Crinan (although the canal had to be longer, this was a much better bet than having to get out of West Loch Tarbert in a south-westerly gale). If you are that keen, drag your boat across to the village like the Vikings did, hence the Gaelic name of 'Tairbeart' meaning isthmus or portage point.
There are plenty of Clyde yachts around in Tarbert marina, quite an eclectic bunch actually with some nice classics, but the village is not wildly interesting. The outdoor gym by the marina is a good place to get rid of the children for an hour or two. The marina itself is excellent with superb toilets and friendly staff. The harbour wall is a 'Telford', so a touch of quality to make up for some truly awful late 20th century architecture. Wander up to inspect, but not enter, the remains of the ruined, mostly late 15th century castle. The castle itself looks much better from afar than close to because part of the stabilisation is with inappropriate brick, and there is a very shouty modern carved stone panel fixed to the southeast outer wall. However, the view down to the harbour is delightful.
Tarbert has a butcher, a very good ironmonger, a small chandlery in the marina, a book shop/crafty sort of place (the Loch Fyne Gallery), and a Co-op supermarket. Next to where the Portavadie ferry comes in, you will find Prentice Seafoods with a wonderful selection of shellfish, so well worth checking out. Apropos Portavadie, you could take the ferry across to the modern marina built in the huge hole originally dug in the 1970s for an oilrig construction yard, but never used. There to enjoy some of their astonishing facilities — an excellent restaurant with friendly staff, a leisure centre and spa boasting among other things an infinity pool in which to wallow while the rain pours down on your bare head. And even a hair-straightener in the men's toilet. Once you could wander up the road to the abandoned, concrete and graffiti-strewn village of Polphail built to house the 500 oilrig workers who were never employed and never arrived. Most atmospheric but now flattened to make way for a distillery planned for the site.
The best place to get a good meal in Tarbert is at Starfish, excellent seafood and very cheerful and friendly, however I think now under new management (ph 01880 739267). But then I have not tried the Galley Café in Harbour Street which sounds good (ph 01880 820090). The pubs do not seriously beckon, and there is no real ale to be had anywhere (tried that, no demand, I was told). The Café Ca'Dora does the usual business.
As well as the well-established Scottish Series for people who like to race (and shout loudly at each other), the Tarbert Traditional Boat Festival was relaunched for those of a more contemplative nature (but it seems to have gone into hibernation again).
So the head of Loch Tarbert is not really an anchorage to dally in, but useful for crew changes as there is a bus from Tarbert to Glasgow. And the anchorage is a nice sheltered place to hang out.
