To me, and anyone else who has competed in the Scottish Islands Peaks Race, this is a special place because it is where the fleet of yachts come in for the second stop to release their runners over three of the Paps of Jura. I have twice done this run myself, so Craighouse means pain to me. Later I just did the sailing bit, but even that can be a big pain if there is no wind and lots of rowing. Now I have retired from such frivolity, although I did return as a geriatric competitor in 2024. The two runners are let off in the dinghy to 'enjoy' their run while the three sailors sort out the boat and have a rest. There is no time for any looking around. But, when just cruising and not racing, there is lots of time and there is a lot to do at Craighouse, as well as just sit in the boat at anchor, or on one of the 16 moorings (pay at the hotel or the shop), and admire the view of the Paps as clouds swirl about their tops or the sun sets behind them.
On a quiet sunny day, perch on the wall overlooking the small harbour (a Telford design built in 1812), eat an ice cream from the nearby Jura Community Store (early 19th Century), gaze at the mountains of Arran over the top of Kintyre, and let the children play on the beach — it may be small and rather scrappy but the children love it nonetheless. Perhaps it is a touch too noisy hereabouts in the summer holidays when there seem to be an amazing number of boats coming and going, including noisy speed boats in good weather. There was once a bit of a cloud over the shop's viability, but in 2012 it was taken over by the Isle of Jura Development Trust who employ a shop manager, and in 2013 they got over half a million from the Big Lottery Fund to help with restoration and rebuilding. Make sure you do your bit and buy your stores there to benefit the local community, they need your custom much more than Tesco does. Then wander past the hotel towards the pier to find Camella Crafts, and Konrad Borkowski's photographic gallery. For delicious bread, phone Kirsty on 07734 469268 at the Island Bakehouse who supplies the shop, and may bake to order if you give her 24 hours notice.
The distillery, founded in 1810, makes a pleasant ensemble with the surrounding buildings. The tacked-on manager's house looks like a small castle. There are tours and — of course — a shop for buying you know what (ph 01496 820385). Do not be misled by the 'standing stone' across the road in the small car park. It is a fake, erected by the distillery in 2011.
The Antlers (ph 01496 305317) is a bistro, café and restaurant in a very nicely restored building. In 2011 it too was taken on by the Isle Jura Development Trust who were determined to keep it going — so use it! New tenants took over in 2025 and are doing well, albeit their sandwiches are enormous.
The Jura Hotel, built in 1834, has 17 refurbished rooms, a bar, showers round the back (refurbished in 2014), and meals in the public bar, lounge bar, and dining room (ph 01496 820243). It is all rather cosy with lovely views from the sitting and dining rooms, and the bar, and from some of the bedrooms too, with tropical trees in the foreground as well as the occasional stag at night-time. It was bought by friends in 2010 and so, by definition, it was a success! In 2022, having definitely done their bit for the hotel, they sold it to the Ardfin estate, but will stay living on the island. Let's hope the hotel continues to prosper. All in all, rather different to when Frances Murray visited in 1884: "The inn, or rather tavern was comfortless enough - the damp parlour full of smoke from a chronic blow-down in the chimney, the house resounding with drinking songs, fiddling, and laughing. The host and hostess were kind, but lacked the means to make us comfortable" (Summer in the Hebrides, Sketches in Colonsay and Oronsay. Frances Murray, James Maclehose & Sons, Glasgow, 1887).
The walk north through the village is very pleasant. The church seems to have a semi- permanent collection of old photographs of Jura people. One of an early local GP with a cigarette in his hand! And there is an audio, Jura 'sound-scape'. The building was started in the late 18th century and there have been several waves of alterations since then. It is plain, calm and Scottish. There is a very useful playground just next to it. And nearby an outdoor table tennis table.
A bit further north, and up the hill a bit, there is an old village called Keils with the remains of crofting houses, some rescued by — I guess — incomers. Further up still is Cill Earnadil, an atmospheric graveyard. Here there is a serene view across the Sound of Jura to Kintyre. The birdsong and the sound of the rushing burn must drown out the minister's words. A good last resting place if only one was around to enjoy it. Unfortunately there is a ghastly concrete extension with horrible railings, particularly vile juxtaposed against the beautiful old rubble walls. Look out for the plaque to Gillouir MacCrain who is said to have "lived to have kept 180 Christmasses in his own house", buried about 1645. This unlikely lifespan may be something to do with him being a Roman Catholic at a time when protestant Presbyterians were in the ascendant. Papish Christmas day in Scotland was banned but could be surreptitiously celebrated in peoples 'own houses' (only to be restored as a Scottish public holiday in 1958), and there were two calendars in use, the Gregorian and the Julian. So there were two December 25ths separated by a few days, two 'Christmasses' that could be 'kept' every year, as long as they were in your own house.
Further on, at the end of the bay, is the main beach for Craighouse, reasonably white sand. It fronts a large field which is used very occasionally as an airstrip. I was once piloted there for lunch from Edinburgh by a friend in an aircraft so light it had its own parachute. We had an initial go at landing but came in too fast, so tried again and were successful. Before taking off he warned me he would abort the effort if we were not off the ground by the time we got to the second gorse bush on the right.
You can hire bikes from Jura Cycles (07562 762382), or walk to, or take the bus to Jura House and its lovely gardens, as good as Achamore on Gigha. But don't. The gardens have been closed since the Ardfin estate was bought by an Australian hedge fund manager in 2010. He renovated and extended the house (no expense spared I am told) and built for himself a world-class 18-hole golf course, along with hyper-luxury accommodation for paying guests (£20,000 a night for the full facilities apparently). Maybe he is expecting Donald Trump to call or buy him out, certainly not little people like me. Perhaps one day this place will become a mouldering monument to the wealth and social divisions of the early 21st century, like Kinloch Castle on Rum is a monument to the excesses of Edwardian society.
Craighouse would not be too bad a place to pick up and drop off crew because for now there is a passenger ferry from Tayvallich (see Loch Sween) on the mainland in summer. You can get to Craighouse from Edinburgh in a total of about five hours, including a coffee stop in Tayvallich. But the ferry only survives on a wing and a prayer, plus a subsidy.
