The Cragaig Bay anchorage on Ulva has lots of interest. Behind the cottage there are a couple of not very distinguished standing stones. But walk east past the cottage along a Land Rover track, and then fork west back up the hill to take a high-level track westwards. There are spectacular views across the bay to the cliffs of Mull, Iona and the Treshnish Islands. All around you will stumble on the remains of derelict cottages hidden in the bracken, the population was turfed out in the 19th century. After a while you will find a graveyard down nearer the shore — Cill Mhic Eoghainn. This is very ruined and I guess in fifty years will be a complete wreck, overgrown with bracken, and forgotten. Sad when MacQuarries from far afield return to search out their ancestors who left this lovely island, starving and looking for a better life elsewhere. Lachlan MacQuarrie became the first Governor of New South Wales in 1810, and is now regarded as the father of Australia.
If you follow the Land Rover track, but east away from the bay, look for the remains of an old water-mill. After a short distance the track follows the edge of a narrow inlet with evidence of old harbour walls and at the head of the inlet the track crosses a small burn. At this point the ruined mill-house is off the track to the left, a few metres. There is still an old millstone in the ruins.
Back on the boat you can take your dinghy and explore the small islands to the west of the anchorage where there are some tiny sandy beaches, grand for a fine summer's day. Or, paying serious attention to the Antares charts, take your boat in amongst them to find a good anchorage.
