The visitors' moorings are too far out, too spread out, and anyway are no longer free, maybe because CalMac owns them. I reckon it is better to anchor near what is called the middle pier if it is not too shallow for you. Over the years, the three piers were built increasingly far away from the village, of course with increasing utility too but also with decreasing charm. The old pier in the 19th century, then in the 1960s the middle pier, and finally the 1987 new pier. This last is much in evidence in the Katie Morag stories written and illustrated by ex-local resident Mairi Hedderwick, and much loved by Scottish children who no doubt will all look out for Grannie Island driving her tractor and Grannie Mainland arriving on the CalMac ferry. The village was founded in the early 19th century by Alexander Maclean of Coll, so explaining the row of very similar — and charming to modern eyes — cottages along the main street. In recent years quite a few new houses have been built to accommodate a population which is now increasing.
The attractions in Arinagour include the shop for modest supplies, and the child and yacht extremely friendly and deservedly award-winning (a term I hate) Coll Hotel for a shower, laundry which they will do for you (maybe not these days), bar and excellent food (ph 01879 230334). It is not cheap but then it would be a lot more expensive in London to eat lobster and scallops, and they would not be as fresh as they are here. Sit outside in the garden in good weather, and let the kids run free. Three generations of the Oliphant family have owned and cherished this hotel since the 1960s, and it certainly shows. However in 2026 it was up for sale, so the future is uncertain.
Bad news for Canna in 2025, but probably good news for Col because Gareth Cole relocated from Cafe Canna to set up a new restaurant here, The Urchin (ph 01879 230022). Breakfast, lunch and dinner Wednesday through Sunday. I have yet to try it.
There is a good café in the main street but not open every day (ph 01879 230022), a rather nice general store and post office with of course the Katie Morag books and various crafts, a small play-park funded and built by the local community, and a craft shop/gallery. Don't miss the Parish Church on the hill which although a not very inspiring early 20th century Gothic confection has a fabulous wooden roof described in 'Pevsner' (The Buildings of Scotland, Argyll and Bute. Frank Arneil Walker, Penguin Books, London, 1992) as "This triumph of joinery is a wholly unexpected delight" (sadly it is a bit spoiled by the electric lights strung from it, please Minister get rid of them, although in 2017 there was no Minister and may still not be).
There is a golf course at Cliad, but that is over two miles from the anchorage.
This is another of those anchorages with moorings, like Canna and Craighouse, which attract a lot of boats in the late afternoon, but most are gone in the morning, without anyone bothering to go ashore. Very strange, they miss a lot. However, the new Community Centre — An Cridhe — has been up and running since 2012 and has 24-hour showers, toilets and laundry facilities so there should be more incentive for boaties to step ashore. It is a lovely airy and clean building with amazing facilities — a gym, stage with lighting, sports hall/exhibition space, meeting room, small library, IT facilities, and DIY teas and coffees. The wood carving around the reception desk was designed by — who else? — Mairi Hedderwick.
