Cullipool is yet another spot that I, and no doubt others, have sailed straight past countless times while hurrying to catch the tide either up or down the Sound of Luing, perhaps inhibited by the slightly tricky-sounding entrance and exposure to the west. But in fact it is a snug anchorage in an easterly wind, with stunning views across to Mull and the islands of Nether Lorne. Not so good when the wind swings round a bit to the south (the visitor moorings are no longer there). There is a rather rickety metal pontoon you can land on rather than the slippery and rocky shoreline, but it may now be abandoned.
Ashore there is quite a large gaggle of early 19th century cottages built for the slate quarrymen. The whole place is steeped in slate — a still-solid slate pier, abandoned and flooded slate quarries (this would be a scary place to bring up young children), crazed looking cliffs left over from blasting, bits of slate all over the place. In the end it finally all closed down in 1965 (there are plans to restart at least some slate quarrying in 2027, but as ever money will be a problem). Walk north through the village as far as you can go. On your way, about 200 yards from the harbour, look out for a steel gate with a small sign proclaiming the 'Isle of Luing railway company'. Nigel Dyckhoff had set up a charming model railway in his garden, but sadly it is no more and maybe even the sign has gone too.
The new in 2015 Atlantic Islands Centre is, quite rightly, getting excellent reviews, it is owned and run by the Isle of Luing Community Trust. Although the exterior is a bit functional, inside it is calm, light and welcoming with a combination of a social centre for the island, an interesting heritage exhibition, a good selection of books and crafts for sale, work-spaces, and a very nice café/restaurant with a tempting lunch menu (ph 01852 314096). I can only vouch for the coffee and cakes (particularly the lemon-drizzle cake). Not open for dinner I think, but as ever check before making a detour, particularly in these post Covid days.
Otherwise there is nothing of great interest except the charm and friendliness of a small island with no pub or hotel, still without the controversial fixed-link across Cuan sound to Seil island, a population of roughly 200. Sadly the primary school was mothballed in 2021 and is likely to close for good. However — and amazingly perhaps — there is an amateur dramatic society. And the Isle of Luing Home Bakers supply the island with very yummy stuff. And there is a handy shop, but with limited opening times, the Isle of Luing Store and Post Office which in 2026 was up for sale (ph 01852 314276).
