
I'm afraid I find this place a sad and bleak 1980s pastiche of a Scottish fishing village. Just to embellish the awful architectural mishmash, the houses are set too far back from the sea from which they are separated by a car park which makes matters even worse. Even sadder when one reads Cowper who in the late 19th century described the pre-marina anchorage as "a perfect little port" (Sailing Tours: The Yachtsman's Guide to the Cruising Waters of the English and Adjacent Coasts, Part V, The West Coasts of Scotland, the Orkneys, and the west coast of the North Sea. Frank Cowper, Upcott Gill, London, 1896). And in 1923 the first Clyde Cruising Club directions called it a "snug anchorage". Alas no more. If only those houses could be replaced with some low-level, imaginative modern architecture, and the car park grassed over and landscaped.
So there seems rather little to commend Craobh as a place, although the marina itself is fine I am told, well used too, and very prettily situated if you keep your back to the car park and admire the view (ph 01852 500222). It may become even better having been sold to the Norton family in 2025. And, as has been pointed out to me, the alternative to the marina might have been an ugly sprawling fish farm which would bring in far less local employment. Be grateful for small mercies.
The Lord of the Isles pub and restaurant is large and open plan, so not particularly cosy, but the views are attractive (ph 0185 2311092). However the whole place was put up for sale in November 2024 for £595 000 and was closed, but it has been reopened in 2026 by the new owners of the marina. There was once a general store in the village itself until it too closed down in 2010 (unsurprising as hardly anyone actually lives there, although I am told that those that do are really trying to make the place work). But in 2026 the marina owners reopened it as The Isles Larder, so great! There is a small craft shop — The Giving Tree with charmingly variable opening times. Riding stables are close by for those that way inclined (ph 07590 023515).
I am afraid that John Betjeman's "Come friendly bombs and fall on Slough to get it ready for the plough" comes to mind. However, I really must go back on a warm summer's day and try again to like this place, I know it does have its fans. Indeed one, who wished to remain anonymous emailed me in 2018 "What an appalling and trite review of Croabh! ... Your review drips with profound discourtesy and rudeness and I think you should be ashamed of yourself". And Shane Spall in 'The Princess Martilda Comes Home' thought it "has to be the loveliest marina in the country" (The Voyages of the Princess Matilda, and The Princess Matilda Comes Home. Shane Spall, Ebury Press, London, 2013). So I definitely will try to try again. In the meantime be aware there are strong views on either side of the argument.
If you want to park yourself in a nearby marina rather than anchor, then Ardfern in Loch Craignish has more on offer ashore although it is further in from the open sea if you are just passing by. Both Ardfern, and Kilmelford Yacht Haven in Loch na Cille, have boatyard facilities. Or anchor just south of the marina in Bàgh an Tigh-Stòir.


